1. اين تتسوق في ميلانو


2. WHERE TO SHOP


3. BARGAINS


4. HOEPLI


5. FASHION


6. IL SALVAGENTE


7. BRUNO MAGLI


8. PAOLO SARPI


9. 0CORSO COMO


10. ARS ROSA


11. LA VETRINA


12. IN BRERA


13. FLOWERS


14. TEAROSE


15. FOOD


16. PECK


17. COVA


18. PASTICCERIA MARCHESI


19. CHOCOLAT


20. RICHART PARIS


21. HABITS CULTI


22. VENCHI


23. GELATERIA MARGHERA


24. LE TRE GAZZELLE


25. SUGAR


26. PRINCI


27. LA BAITA DEL FORMAGGIO


28. IL SALUMAIO DI MONTENAPOLEONE


29. HOME


30. BLACK OUT


31. ZANI & ZANI


32. IL CENTROTAVOLA


33. region.


34. ALESSI


35. SINIGAGLIA


36. E DE PADOVA


37. JACOPO FOGGINI


38. CASSINA


39. GIFTS FOR MEN


40. G LORENZI

اين تتسوق في ميلانو

WHERE TO SHOP

There is a glittering flagship store for almost every designer name. Head for the smart shoppers' havens of via Monte Napoleone and via della Spiga. But don't be afraid of wandering off the beaten track.

BARGAINS

HOEPLI

Via Hoepli 5 (00 39 02 864 871). Heaven, hell - and just for you, Madam, I'll throw in purgatory as well. This is the place to buy Il Dante Minuscolo Hoepliano, a 7cm-by-12cm version of the Tuscan poet's magnum opus, first published in 1904. This bookshop of publisher Hoepli is a six-floor monument to reading. TS Eliot used to carry the Hoepli pocket edition of The Divine Comedy around with him; and you should do the same, even if you don't speak a word of Italian. It's perfect for whipping out of that designer jacket when a fashion show starts to drag.
CHILDREN
PUPI SOLARI
Piazza Tommaseo 2 (00 39 02 463 325). The children's clothes here, while expensive, have become something of a cult among well-dressed Milanese mothers.

FASHION

The centre of Milan's fashion universe is the Quadrilatero d'Oro, the golden fashion rectangle that comprises the long parellel streets of via Montenapoleone and via della Spiga. Via Montenapoleone (Monte Napo for short), which defines the long, western edge of the rectangle, is often considered to be the key street and most of the big designers, from Gucci and Prada to Versace and Valentino, have flagship outlets here. But quieter, pedestrianised via della Spiga, parallel to via Monte Napoleone at the eastern extreme, is just as chichi, with Dolce & Gabbana's postmodern rococo boutiques at numbers 2 and 26 slugging it out with Romeo Gigli, newcomer Piombo and yet more Prada. Running between the two main streets, via Sant'Andrea is home to Armani, Fendi, Trussardi and Missoni. Busy corso Venezia to the south and via Manzoni to the north form the short sides of the rectangle, and take a lot of the overspill, including British designer Paul Smith, whose via Manzoni boutique is just down the road from the Spazio Armani all-in-one megastore.
ALFONSO GARLANDO
Via Madonnina 1. The shoe shop of the moment: cute, sexy styles (including boots with attitude) in every colour imaginable.
CAVALLI E NASTRI
Via Brera 2. Cavalli e Nastri has an exceptional collection of vintage clothing, bags and jewellery from the 1950s and 1960s in first-rate condition.

IL SALVAGENTE

Via Fratelli Bronzetti 16 (00 39 02 7611 0328). Price-conscious Milanese trendsters do most of their clothes and accessory shopping in huge, multi-label warehouses that offer last year's collections at reductions of between 30 and 50 per cent. Some of them are fly-by-night operations, but the best, such as Il Salvagente (Gigli, Aspesi, D&G, Versus), have built up solid reputations.

BRUNO MAGLI

Via Manzoni 14 (00 39 02 781 264) and MaxMara, galleria San Carlo 6 (00 39 02 7600 0829). Most single-brand spacci aziendali or factory outlets tend to be way out in the industrial hinterland; exceptions include shoe king Bruno Magli's sale shop on via Manzoni and the MaxMara factory outlet near piazza San Babila.

PAOLO SARPI

Via Paolo Sarpi, south of the Cimitero Monumentale. If you want this year's collections without the price tag, head for via Paolo Sarpi, in the heart of Milan's Chinatown, where a thousand sewing machines are busy consolidating the street's reputation as 'the poor man's via Monte Napoleone'.

0CORSO COMO

Corso Como 10 (00 39 02 653 531). Give yourself at least a morning to explore Carla Sozzani's cavernous store (formerly a Fiat garage). This ex-magazine editor's selection of fashion labels for men and women, ephemera such as antique buttons, obscure perfumes and homewares is impeccable. Also boasts in-house tailor offering bespoke service. The music shop, the art gallery, the bookshop and restaurant make this place hard to leave.

ARS ROSA

Via Monte Napoleone 8 (00 39 02 7602 3822). Exquisite lingerie, nightdresses and baby layettes from another classic Milanese shop that is, thankfully, short on fashion gimmicks. This is the choice of insiders who value luxury and don't mind paying a little more for it.

LA VETRINA

Di Beryl via Statuto 4 (00 39 02 654 278). This is the fashion insider's one-stop shop for clothing and the shoes of the moment. The shop's own footwear brand, Ordinary People, is current and well-priced, and other big names like Philippe Model are also stocked.
FATTO A MANO
Corso di Porta Ticinese 76 (00 39 02 8940 1958). The highlights of this shop are the knitted silk garments.
IN NAVIGLIO
Ripa di Porta Ticinese 21. This is the canal area of Milan. Have a rummage in Rerund-Strasce for fabulous 1920s frocks and bags.

IN BRERA

Via Solferino 3. This charming, historical area just north of the Duomo, is renowned for its shops which sell pricey but high-quality arts and crafts. Meru is the place for delicate gold-and-enamel jewellery.

FLOWERS

TEAROSE

Via Santo Spirito 18 (00 39 02 7601 5467). Order beautiful flowers by phone from this little shop near the city centre. However it is worth a visit to see the eye-catching displays and the unusual assortment of homewares from antique quilts to 19th-century food safes and hand-painted armoires.

FOOD

PECK

Via Spadari 9 (00 39 02 802 3161). Peck, the ultimate Italian deli, has become a Milanese mini-empire. The main shop, close to the Duomo, has enough Parmesan mountains, salami tailbacks and olive-oil lakes to keep any EU bureaucrat happy. Behind the neat and gleaming front section stretch 2,000sq m of kitchens, cold rooms, cellars and offices. Above is a café, wine bar and tearoom, with cakes to die for and a selection of specialist teas and coffees. Downstairs is the wine cellar, where bottles are displayed on cherrywood shelves as if in a museum. Just across the way, in via Hugo, is the Cracco-Peck restaurant (see Where To Eat). The only real drawback is the self-restraint required.

COVA

Via Monte Napoleone 8 (00 39 02 7600 5599). Take the weight off your Manolos and stop for tea and cakes here. In the month leading up to Easter, don't leave without a selection of their handmade chocolate eggs. At any time of year, a box of Cova chocolates is a most acceptable gift.

PASTICCERIA MARCHESI

Via Santa Maria Alla Porta 13 (00 39 02 862 770). Milanese tradition doesn't usually have a place for pastry, but an exception is made at this charming corner where you should stop for cappuccino and cake. Take their beautifully hand-wrapped parcels of biscuits and sweets home. Panettone is their speciality.

CHOCOLAT

Via Boccaccio 9 (00 39 02 4810 0597). Open until midnight every day, Chocolat is both a chocolate shop and a café serving treats such as Moroccan coffee in a chocolate-dusted cup topped with cream. The style is 'comfortable contemporary' (Minotti pouffes, Alias tables) and the range of chocolate flavours - chilli, balsamic vinegar, aniseed - is truly astounding.

RICHART PARIS

Via Vincenzo Monti 36 (00 39 02 3652 0676). At Richart Paris, chocolate is considered an art form and products are displayed in a bright-white gallery setting. The emphasis here is on decoration and the 'collection' changes from season to season with occasional guest stars such as 'Indian Night' - chocolate blocks flavoured with cardamom, vanilla and ginger.

HABITS CULTI

Via Angelo Mauri 5 (00 39 0248517286). Encased in a glass box attended by a white-clad 'supervisor', the chocolate shop at Habits Culti sells temptations such as moka gianduiotti (irregularly shaped, with a coffee-and-hazelnut filling) and moramara (bitter-sweet spheres with a hazelnut core).

VENCHI

Via Mengoni/via Tommaso Grossi (00 39 02 8909 6178). Venchi, attached to the new Park Hyatt hotel, specialises in rare, regional recipes. It turns out more than 250 products, including truffle cigars and jars of 'Chocaviar' - extra-bitter 90 per cent cocoa granules.

GELATERIA MARGHERA

Via Marghera 33. Milan's most famous ice-cream shop is the Gelateria Marghera, where the concept has been expanded to include a unique range of semifreddi - half-frozen mousses based on traditional desserts such as millefoglie and profiteroles.

LE TRE GAZZELLE

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 22 (00 39 02 7602 3826). Le Tre Gazzelle is an historic café with an extravagant display of ice creams decorated like Ascot hats with carved fruits and flowers. They taste as good as they look.

SUGAR

Via Vincenzo Monti 26 (00 39 02 481 5376). High-design creeps into everything in Milan, including pastry shops. Sugar specialises in contemporary-style cakes and dainty offerings such as individual cake portions.

PRINCI

Piazza XXV Aprile 5 (00 39 02 2906 0832). Princi, a new bakery near corso Como designed by Claudio Silvestrin, features a dramatic open kitchen, a real fire and a long, thin, stone 'shelf' instead of tables.

LA BAITA DEL FORMAGGIO

Via Foppa 5 (00 39 02 481 7892). La Baita del Formaggio is a 50-year-old cubbyhole of a shop that sells more than 300 types of cheese, including the owner's own Lariano speziato, a medium-soft cow's cheese flavoured with rosemary.
ROSSI & GRASSI
Via Ponte Vetero 4 (00 39 02 8646 2247). The Rossi & Grassi delicatessen in the Brera district specialises in cold meats, from fine prosciutto San Daniele to mortadella with pistachio nuts.

IL SALUMAIO DI MONTENAPOLEONE

Via Montenapoleone 12 (00 39 02 7600 1123). For ladies who lunch and then do a little shopping, Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone is by far the chicest deli in town. It's overpriced, but worth visiting for the visual feast.

HOME

Cutting-edge furniture and homeware showrooms cluster in three main areas: the top end of via Manzoni; the parallel streets of via Durini and via Cerva just south of San Babila church; and the Brera-via Solferino axis.

BLACK OUT

Via dell'Orso 7a. Black Out has one of the best collections of modern and contemporary lighting in Milan. Iconic designs by Gio Ponti and Vico Magistretti are sold alongside creations by 'youngsters' such as Karim Rashid.
DILMOS
Piazza San Marco 1; entrance on via Solferino. Browse round Dilmos, a modern furniture emporium of the highest order with pieces by Sottsass, Pesce and Starck.
AC&T
Via Brera 2. AC&T has lovely leather items for the house. Clean-lined, modern designs (from pencil boxes to stools) come in seven colours, all with bright-white stitching.

ZANI & ZANI

Via San Damiano (00 39 02 798096). Zani & Zani, just off corso Venezia, is the place to admire the beauty of ladles, whisks and parsley choppers. The collection also includes cutlery and china, and everything is displayed like a work of art.

IL CENTROTAVOLA

Via Spadari 11 (00 39 02 866641). Located next to Peck, Milan's famous food hall, Il CentroTavola is a showroom for the best European products of the moment, such as linen from Belgium and Lithuania; china from Germany; and stylish glasses from the Veneto

region.

ALESSI

Corso Matteotti 9 (00 39 02 795726). Head for Alessi's showroom in the heart of the quadrilatero d'oro for hard-to-come-by lines such as the Bombè tea set (a very early design) and mechanically brilliant gadgets such as fold-away heat resistors for the kitchen.

SINIGAGLIA

Corso di Porta Romana 7 (00 39 02 8645 2600). Sinigaglia stocks an eclectic mix of hideous crystalware and superlative kitchenware such as old-fashioned Peugeot coffee grinders, olive-wood pepper pots with silver bases, integrated oil-and-vinegar bottles and much more.
SAWAYA & MORONI
Via Manzoni 11 (00 39 02 874 549). During the Salone del Mobile (Furniture Fair) in April, design temples such as Sawaya & Moroni host parties the equal of anything the fashion brigade can throw.
STUDIO 1950
Corso di Porta Ticinese 68 (00 39 02 836 0304). Sells eclectic antique and modern design objects.
TAD
Via di Croce Rosa 1 (00 39 02 869 0110). The textiles are the key items here.

E DE PADOVA

Corso Venezia 14 (00 39 02 7601 5467). If you have time to visit only one of the amazing range of furniture shops in Milan, make it this one. The store, which was masterminded by Achille Castiglioni, is at the cutting-edge of furniture design and you can be sure you will reliably find the best of what's new on the scene here.

JACOPO FOGGINI

Via Sannio 24 (00 39 02 5410 1409). When the Missonis threw what had to be the fashion party of the year in 1997, their warehouse venue was decorated with huge hand-blown plastic lamps especially commissioned from newcomer Foggini. Since then he has become a cause celebré in the world of interiors. Give some thought to transportation before you buy. Open everyday, 10am-6pm, by appointment only.

CASSINA

Via Durini 18 (00 39 02 7602 0745). How about a set of classic Giò Ponti superleggera (superlight) chairs, first produced in 1955, from Cassina? One of Ponti's original aims was to make good design affordable, something that still holds true today.

GIFTS FOR MEN

G LORENZI

Via Monte Napoleone 9 (00 39 02 7602 2848). Sells the finest cut-throat razors, badger hair shaving brushes and a comprehensive selection of kitchen and hunting knives, plus every imaginable smoker's accessory, from briar pipes to Toscano cigar cases. A real experience!
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